PERU, 5th -21st November 2019 I stretched the bright blue sports tape around my thumb, rubbed it on thoroughly and tried opening my hand. The tape protected my thumb, like the doctor (a friend of my parents) I had Skyped with the day before had suggested. It felt good. After examining my hand via the … More #122: Highs and lows
PERU, 3rd-7th November 2019 “You’re very tall,” I said to Max as I welcomed him off his bus from Lima onto the busy streets of Churin. His was very tall, surprisingly so (that’s why I said it), but I hoped he didn’t take it the wrong way. It was, after all, the way I greeted … More #121: The Apprentice
PERU, 28th October – 1st November 2019 It turned out I was not very good at cycling without Dea. It had been barely an hour since we’d said our first goodbye and the 12 kilometre cycle to Margos was not going at all well. I’d failed to restock on water before leaving town, thinking I … More #120: How the hell did I ever manage to do this alone?
PERU, 26th – 28th October 2019 I had been longing for this moment for months. To cycle the quiet and tough mountain dirt roads in Peru had been a dream since we began cycling south through South America, something of a highlight and a promise of once again cycling and camping in these remote and … More #119: I had to try…
PERU, 11th-25th October 2019 After three rest days in Pucallpa (we really did need a rest after that last boat journey) we were finally ready to get back on our bikes, with a continuous four and a half months of cycling ahead of us to Buenos Aires, all being well. Our time in Pucallpa had … More #118: In which we return to the Andes
PERU, 24th September – 11th October 2019 Iquitos is the largest inland city in the world that is not accessible by road. You can only get to it by plane or by boat, or by hacking your way through the jungle, I suppose, if you’re into that. We’d taken boats of course, in case you’re … More #117: Taking the Ucayali River from Iquitos to Pucallpa
ECUADOR-PERU, 21st-24th Septemer 2019 We were down at the riverfront in plenty of time to board the first boat of our river journey. This boat was a rapido, a fast, sleek passenger ferry that would take us from Coca, where the road ended, to Nuevo Rocafuerte, the last town in Ecuador, in about seven hours … More #116: Taking the Napo River from Coca to Iquitos
ECUADOR, 27th August – 20th September 2019 After taking a couple of days off to give Dea’s wrist a little chance to recover, we rode the last 28 kilometres to Tumbaco. We opted to take the highway, which was in some ways a shame as it meant we missed out on a gravel bicycle path, … More #115: Who knew it would rain in the rainforest?
ECUADOR, 21st-26th August 2019 “I know that guy! That was Gerald!” Dea exclaimed suddenly. “Yes, I think it was,” I concurred, having noticed the long blonde hair as it passed the open door of our hotel room on its way to the bathroom, and now again on the way back, I was confident it was … More #114: Time for a change?
ECUADOR, 16th-20th August 2019 The border between Colombia and Ecuador was one of the most extraordinary we’d been through, particularly on the Ecuadorian side, where the immigration building and its surroundings had the look of a makeshift refugee camp. Everywhere sat families with their backs propped up by their meagre possessions, kids running around, their … More #113: Into Ecuador